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When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.